http://restaurantsinmesquitetx.com/category/american/ Restaurant review: At Le Bilboquet, a glittering sceneDallas on August 2013.Updated: 07 August 2013 06:36 PMRelated Restaurant review: Pozo Mercado has a sunny disposition and a terrific selection of mescals (2 stars) Leslie Brenner's Restaurant Week best betsWhen Le Bilboquet, a 27-year-old French bistro on New York City‚§™s Upper East Side, came to the end of its lease and closed its doors (with a plan to reopen later elsewhere in the city), one of its former managers, Stephane Courseau, had the idea of opening a Le Bilboquet in Dallas with the same menu and chef.The idea was positively brilliant. Dallas has a serious paucity of French restaurants. The Knox-Henderson location Corseau and business partner Laurent Lesort managed to snag was the recently closed L‚§™Ancestral, a sentimental favorite with the Park Cities crowd. The Upper East Side is the Manhattan equivalent of the Park Cities: old school, conservative, lots of money.The restaurant should translate perfectly.And it does.It‚§™s at once buzzy and intimate, very much a scene. Hard to imagine it was once L‚§™Ancestral, so radically has the dining room changed. The transformation goes way beyond the decor ‚§” Lesort gutted the place, and what used to be small, dark, grandmotherly comforting, quiet and cozy is now open, airy, light and vibrant.Just the place to dally with a prettily arranged Belgian endive-and-Roquefort salad. Dressed generously (or heavily, depending on your point of view) in a Dijon vinaigrette emulsified to creaminess, the colorful chop, perky with tomatoes, was accented nicely with toasted walnuts.Or a towerlike assemblage of chunky avocado salad and mayonnaisey crab salad. Chef ‚§ĹMomo‚§ Sow sets it on a small pool of tomato coulis, adding circles of basil-chive oil, presumably for color (it had little flavor), and a jaunty hat of fried won-ton skin strips for crunch. There‚§™s nothing cutting-edge or original in these starters; they recall the stylish French food served in New York and Paris in the 1980s or early ‚§™90s. Safe, familiar and often well-executed, at Le Bilboquet they seem captured in a time wrinkle.You‚§™d never have seen such a gigantic portion of tuna tartare for one person in Paris, though; Le Bilboquet‚§™s would do nicely for a family of four. Sow dresses it prodigiously with sesame vinaigrette, sandwiches it between fried won-ton skins and decorates it with diced tomato and cucumber. The first few bites are pleasant, but there‚§™s not enough going on in the dish to hold one‚§™s interest. For $22, I‚§™m looking for something with more panache; sesame seeds scattered on the plate don‚§™t do the trick.